Why Use Clicker / Marker Training? Because it's fast, fun and effective!
"Clicker or Marker training" is a force-free training method based in behavioral science that relies on marking the behavior we like and reinforcing (rewarding) it. This method of training has been used by marine mammal trainers to teach the amazing tricks in their Dolphin shows. You can’t alpha roll a dolphin. You can’t collar correct a whale or push him into the position you want. And you don’t need to! The clicker is a small device that makes a "click" sound when pressed. The sound acts as a marker to communicate to your dog which behavior is being rewarded. Or, if you prefer, you can use a word as a marker, such as the word "YES!" Think of the clicker or Yes as a camera. The dog sits, you snap the picture. The dog sits, Click & Treat. If you snap the shutter too early or late, you’ve missed the shot. If you Click late, the dog is no longer sitting. Timing is important! Clicker training can begin as soon as your new dog or pup has settled into his new home. No need to wait until he's 6 months old (as was the case with traditional correction-based training). No force, no correction, lot's of reinforcement and fun means that your pup will learn to love to train with you.
“What is Reinforcement?” A reinforcement or reward is anything that your dog will work to get. A food treat, a game of tug, a walk, play with other dogs, greeting people, sniffing that tree, etc. For simplicity’s sake, I will refer to the Clicker or Marker as “Click” and the reinforcement as “Treat”.
Behavior is ruled by consequences. Reinforcement-based training focuses on what happens immediately after a behavior occurs. Immediately means within 1-3 seconds, not minutes. Behavior that is rewarded is likely to be repeated. Reward the behaviors that you like, ignore or interrupt behaviors that you don’t. If this is a problem behavior, teach an alternate behavior to replace the problem behavior. Be fair and consistent. Decide what your “House Rules” are and teach them to your dog. Control the environment (close doors, clear counters of food, put shoes away, etc.) and manage when you cannot (crating, ex-pen, on leash, tether to you) so your dog doesn’t practice problem behaviors until the new, appropriate behavior has been established..
Rules of Clicker/Marker Training:
What the Click means to your dog:
Five Clicker Training Steps:
1. Get the Behavior, Click & Treat
2. Change the Training Picture
3. Give it a Name
4. Make it Harder
5. Take it on the Road
Most Common Clicker Training Questions
“What is Reinforcement?” A reinforcement or reward is anything that your dog will work to get. A food treat, a game of tug, a walk, play with other dogs, greeting people, sniffing that tree, etc. For simplicity’s sake, I will refer to the Clicker or Marker as “Click” and the reinforcement as “Treat”.
Behavior is ruled by consequences. Reinforcement-based training focuses on what happens immediately after a behavior occurs. Immediately means within 1-3 seconds, not minutes. Behavior that is rewarded is likely to be repeated. Reward the behaviors that you like, ignore or interrupt behaviors that you don’t. If this is a problem behavior, teach an alternate behavior to replace the problem behavior. Be fair and consistent. Decide what your “House Rules” are and teach them to your dog. Control the environment (close doors, clear counters of food, put shoes away, etc.) and manage when you cannot (crating, ex-pen, on leash, tether to you) so your dog doesn’t practice problem behaviors until the new, appropriate behavior has been established..
Rules of Clicker/Marker Training:
- Click while your dog is doing something you’d like him to repeat
- Always follow the Click with a Treat. Remember, a Treat doesn’t have to always be a food reward
What the Click means to your dog:
- The behavior you did at the time of the Click has earned you a Treat.
Five Clicker Training Steps:
1. Get the Behavior, Click & Treat
- Shape, Capture or Lure
2. Change the Training Picture
- After your dog “gets” the behavior, change your position in relation to the dog so that your dog doesn’t learn that “Sit" means to come to the front of you and put his rear on the floor. Instead, “Sit” should mean for the dog to put his rear on the floor, immediately where he is at, regardless of where you are.
3. Give it a Name
- After your dog is readily offering the behavior, you are ready to add the cue/command.
4. Make it Harder
- Now it's time to add an increasing level of distractions, distance, duration, precision. Be sure to increase one thing at a time. Don’t attempt to increase the length of time your dog can stay at the same time as you are moving further away. Break it down so your dog will succeed.
5. Take it on the Road
- Once a behavior is “trained”, change the environment. It's easy for your dog to lie down and stay in your living room and quite another to do so in a busy park. So, Take it on the Road! Can your dog perform the behavior in each room of the house, in the yard, while out on a walk, or at the park? Be prepared that you may need to take some steps back in training (go through some of the training steps again to “remind” your dog) when you change the environment. If your dog fails twice in a row, set him up to succeed by making it a little easier by moving your dog further away from what is distracting him.
Most Common Clicker Training Questions
- Do I have to use a Clicker? Can't I just use my voice? You can use your voice...choose a unique word (for example "Yes!") to mark behaviors instead of the clicker. However, be aware that the clicker is much more consistent and precise. Our voices may vary in tone and we tend to be a little late when using verbal markers.
- Am I going to have to use a Clicker and Treats forever? No, you will not need to use the clicker for the rest of your dog's life. The clicker is used to train new behaviors. Once the behavior is learned and on cue, you no longer need the clicker.
- My dog is not food motivated. How can I use clicker training? You can use toys or play, if your dog prefers. It's important that you don't leave your dog's food out for him 24/7. Feed him at designated mealtimes, (I feed my adult dogs twice a day), allow 10 minutes for him to eat, and then pick up the bowl (and any leftovers) until the next mealtime. Free-feeding may lead to over-eating. Free-feeding also makes it difficult to monitor how much your dog is eating, which is one of the first signs of some illnesses.
